Getting High in Humboldt

Aerial photography of Capetown Coastline, Northern California, Humboldt

Capetown Coastline in Humboldt County, Northern California

Capetown Coastline in Humboldt County, Northern California

The Boys in the back, Chris & Alex, rocking out as usual

The Boys in the back, Chris & Alex, rocking out as usual

Always comforting, our pilot searching for our location asks, Where are we?

Always comforting, our pilot searching for our location asks, Where are we?

Tripping Overland began as many things, one of them being a way to forgo the necessity of air travel in getting there. There is always a better way to go than stepping into a metal poop with wings and jet fuel at location A to get to destination B. Sure, for the sake of expediency airtravel is a a necessary evil. And it’s safe. Well, woo-fucking-hoo, let’s just all get hopped up on travel-sized vodkas and ambien, and jump the next Aerobus to whatever-third-world-island-we’re-exploiting-now on some shitty five-day four-night tour to languish jet-lagged on whitesand beaches and have the indigenous serve us sanitized versions of local fare. Ok, maybe I am overstating the point.

The truth is I love flying. Who doesn’t? It’s the most invigorating feeling I have ever had apart from being in the ocean (or with a woman).

There are many ways to change perception, to enhance perspective, to attempt a parallax view, and flying in a Cessna 172 Skyhawk–a four-seat, single-engine, high-wing fixed-wing aircraft, the most successful mass produced light aircraft in history, which barely goes over 105 miles per hour, likely less when stuffed like a tin can–is one of the best.

Aerial photography of Humboldt County coastline and interior foothills © Brett Richardson & Alex McKenzie

Sailing the Seto Inland Sea

Sailing the Seto Inland Sea
Sailing the Seto Inland Sea

Sailing the Seto Inland Sea

Before Toyota, Nissan and Honda took over the world, ships ruled. The Seto Uchi Kai was once the main transport artery between Osaka and Kyushu. Now, as in my case, it’s often used as a passage for ferrying travelers from Osaka and Kobe to Shanghai, a trip that will cross the troubled waters of the East China Sea. Far right is the Great Seto Bridge which connects Okayama in Honshu and Kagawa in Shikoku across a series of five small islands. At 13 kilometers, it’s the world’s longest two-tiered bridge system, and at ¥3,500, maybe the most expensive to cross. From now on it’s nothing but water and sky and little in between.

Golden Pond at Saiho-ji

The Golden Pond at Saiho-ji in Kyoto
The Golden Pond at Saiho-ji in Kyoto

The Golden Pond at Saiho-ji in Kyoto

To take the first tentative steps across the world one can only wish to begin a journey in peace, which was why I hitchhiked from the raucous, neon-lit world of Tokyo to the quiescent gardens of Kyoto.

I was guided to Saiho-ji, otherwise known as Koke-dera (moss-temple), by a local family as time-tested and honored as the temple itself. As it is a bit complicated to get into Saiho-ji (no walk-ins allowed), my Japanese family graciously aided me in my pursuit to gain audience there. In order to do so one must fill out a postcard and send by mail, soon recieving a postcard reply which will inform you of your day of visit at least one week ahead of schedule. The fee is payable upon arrival, at which time guests are required to enter the main temple hall and participate in a session of Zazen meditation, after which they are asked to write, with ink and brush, their names, address and a wish, to be kept by the monks. Guests then have 45 minutes to tour the infamous moss garden located to the east.

The grove of the moss garden of Saihō-ji was laid out as a circular promenade centered around ōgonchi, the Golden Pond shaped like the kanji for “heart” or “mind” (心 kokoro) and contains three small islands: Asahi Island (朝日島), Yūhi Island (夕日島), and Kiri Island (霧島). Said to be covered with more than 120 varieties of moss, the original design by Japanese gardener Musō Soseki included no moss whatsoever, but rather white sand. The moss is said to have started growing after the flooding of the temple grounds in the early Edo Period when there was little money for upkeep.

Asahi island at the Golden Pond at Saiho-ji

Asahi island at the Golden Pond at Saiho-ji

Shell Oil Arctic Drillship Noble Discoverer Runs Aground in Dutch Harbor

Shell Oil Noble Discoverer afloat in Dutch Harbor
Shell Oil Noble Discoverer afloat in Dutch Harbor

Shell Oil Noble Discoverer afloat in Dutch Harbor

Saturday, July 14th, 2012 the Shell Oil Arctic Drillship Noble Discoverer, one of two Shell ships that will drill exploratory oil wells in the Arctic waters of Alaska’s Chukchi and Beaufort Seas, came loose from its moorings in Dutch Harbor, Alaska, and ran aground on Airport Beach in Unalaska Bay. The Coast Guard, which is monitoring the situation, said that Shell is not reporting that it ran aground. Photos say otherwise.

“While moored off the coast of Dutch Harbor, the Noble Discoverer drill ship drifted toward land and stopped very near the coast. One of Shell’s vessels, the Lauren Foss, then safely towed the Discoverer to its prior mooring position,” Shell spokesman Curtis Smith said in a statement. Francis attributes the drift to winds and the soft seabed of Unalaska Bay which allowed the ship to drag its anchor.

From an Dutch Harbor Telegraph Op-ed the day after the non-disaster: “The grounding of the Noble Discoverer is not a disaster in the ecological or even maritime sense. There most likely is very little damage to the ship. Maybe none. But this is the exact sort of lapse in attention which caused the Exxon Valdez to run up on Bligh Reef. Was somebody on watch busy with Facebook? Nobody looked out a porthole to notice the vessel’s position had changed? No Shell worker on shore looked out their hotel window and said ‘Whoa!’

Greenpeace doesn’t have to say a thing. Shell has said it all.”

On a related story from the Center For Biological Diversity: “The company has admitted that its Arctic drillship Noble Discoverer and its oil-spill response vessel Nanuq can’t meet the air-pollution standards in its Clean Air Act permit from the Environmental Protection Agency. Shell’s own documents show that the company knew back in 2010 that it couldn’t meet its permit requirements — but instead of fixing the problem, it’s waited till the eleventh hour to ask the EPA for a waiver to just let it drill in the Arctic, sidestepping these strict air-quality protections.

Shell has told the media it’s certain the EPA will let it move forward — despite the fact that its drillship is going to emit three times the amount of harmful nitrogen oxides allowed, and its oil-response vessel is going to emit 10 times the amount of particulate matter pollution.”

The Shell Oil Kulluk Oil Rig waits in the reflection of  Makushin Range

The Shell Oil Kulluk Oil Rig waits in the reflection of Makushin Range

Sunday at the Getty Center

Van Gogh's Irises at the Getty Museum
Guided by the glide at the Getty

Guided by the glide at the Getty

Located in the lowland foothills in the beginnings of the Santa Monica Mountains, just above the 405 freeway in a northerly Brentwood neighborhood of Los Angeles, this is the oilman J. Paul Getty’s gift to the masses. This free museum (parking is $15), designed to pay homage to various Greek & Roman history, specializes in “pre-20th-century European paintings, drawings, illuminated manuscripts, sculpture, and decorative arts; and 19th- and 20th-century American and European photographs”. Among the works on display is the painting Irises by Vincent van Gogh, pictured below.

But it’s more than just a museum, as a “quick” walk-around will show. There are a number of outdoor sculptures on display in the various terraced gardens spread about the campus designed by architect Richard Meier. A highlight is Robert Irwin’s living sculpture central garden, with its circular odeon-style motif of the play of water. The view from the southeast wall, replete with cactus gardens and modernist architecture overlooks the southland, moves in a parabola from the curvaceous blue-sky laden beaches to the densely-packed smoggy urban sprawl, while you caress your lover from the safe distance of the hilltop.

Redwood Creek Beach State Park

Driftwood at Redwood Creek Beach State Park
Driftwood at Redwood Creek Beach State Park

Driftwood at Redwood Creek Beach State Park

Redwood Creek Beach State Park is where the Redwood Creek, one of three major rivers and watersheds that runs through Redwood National Park, ends. It enters the Pacific Ocean just north of the southern boundary of Redwood National Park, near Orick. The Redwood Creek Estuary is located along the coast near the Kuchel Visitor Center. But the beach, though abounding with beautifully jutting rocks and strewn redwood logs, does not make up the entire park. Located high above Redwood Creek, along Bald Hills Road, is the Redwood Creek Overlook, one the more noteworthy views in the park, providing exceptional vistas of Redwood Creek, its drainage, a number of strands of Redwood trees, and the Pacific coast. The nearby hillsides contain 9000 acres of old growth redwood, one of the largest collections still remaining. At one time the Tall Trees Grove, below the Redwood Overlook, was believed to contain the three tallest trees in the world. The tallest tree, believed to be about 600 years old and known as the “Libby Redwood”, was measured at 367.8 feet. In 2006, however, another tree inside the park was found to be the highest, although its location has not yet been released to the public. The altitude of the Redwood Creek Overlook is about 2000 feet; altitudes in the park range from sea level to 3100 feet. On slopes which are adjacent to alluvial flats, such as those visible from Redwood Overlook, there is a transition from Redwood to Douglas fir forests. Between 1000 and 1600 feet there is mixed Redwood and Evergreen forest. The Redwood forests have the climatic effect of removing moisture from mist and fog as it moves across the land, leaving inland areas drier. In the view from Redwood Creek Overlook, the marine layer of fog can be seen laying over the ocean as it is intercepted by the Redwood forests and coastal hills and mountains. From Visit Redwood Coast.

On Packing Up On Moving On – Tripping Overland Up North

Where Night Meets Dawn
Where Night Meets Dawn

Where Night Meets Dawn

I wake from a dreamless sleep in a dark cold. It feels as if there is nothing around me, not even the ground on which I lie, though I take this for granted as I am not falling. Trembling, I push myself up and attempt to feel my way through the chill nothingness, though where I am going, I don’t know. Barefoot and stumbling drunkenly, I eventually hit a wall. Gratefully I stand there, relieved and breathing hard, somewhat at peace, as if relaxing beneath a warm shower of water. Blindly, I roll the dice and choose to inch left along its cratered surface until I come to its ninety degree cohort and I catch a draught of cool air rushing in from somewhere overhead. My hands begin to paw frantically about in search of a switch, a cord, a knob, some sign of intelligent life other than these mute obelisk reflecting back the night. My eyes should have adjusted by now but I can still see nothing. It is getting colder. I begin to jog, running a guiding hand along the wall, counting time to measure the circumference of the room. But it is not long before I hit something hard with my foot and tumble face first into the cold hard floor. The generalized pain spreading across my head is welcome. It dissipates the fear and insecurity of the senselessness surrounding me. Something warm runs down my cheek as I reach my hand behind me to feel what I tripped over. My fingers flutter across the hard square like a butterfly in the sun. Feeling something other than myself and the wall is a tactile pleasure. I bring myself closer to it until I feel a hinge here, a hasp there—it’s a box. Open it, I scream in my head, drowning out the mean silence, but opening it does nothing more than add more mystery to the dark. What is inside of—what was that noise? A shifting shush, as silent as a woman’s hips in silk. I start to reach my hand, searching every corner in the surprisingly large box when out of the corner of my eye a pinprick of white appears. I realize I am looking up. I see the infinitesimal scintilla of starlight shoot toward a far off point in the invisible horizon. It is soon joined by a sibling. And another. And before long a vast panorama of iotas twinkle from one end of the endless black and amass toward a growing ball of illumination in the distance—a star. It is only after some indeterminable time has passed that I sense something touching me, that I realize something soft and matching black as the night is crawling up my arm. My attention goes back to the ball dancing about as it collects the tiny moths streaking toward its warm giving light. It grows so fast that it is impossible to tell how far away it actually is. The thing from the box continues to move up my arm, onto my shoulder. I look down but cannot see it, cannot see anything, except the star. The fear my brain tells me to feel concerning the unknown danger is allayed by this light, despite its lack of reflectivity. As it grows more rotund and takes a larger portion of what might be called the sky, it emits a warm fuzzy buzzing, the first sound I recognize hearing aside from my own internal voice. The warmth I feel as the thing wraps around my neck like a scarf on a chill winter’s night is somehow comforting rather than terrifying. Though amorphous like a liquid, I now have a sense of its size and shape, and can feel its blob-like body inching up the side of my head. Suddenly the star expands to almost double its size before retracting, and in time to the musical humming begins to pulsate in time, all the while still adding to its now massive rotundity. It is then that I catch the merest glimmer of a reflection of the black exoskeleton of the snakey-shaped thing crawling in my ear. Even then I feel no sense of impending dread or danger, though I begin to feel uncontrollably sleepy. The burgeoning star of light pulses and thrums ever larger and so close that as I reach out my hands to touch it I see the silhouettes of my fingers, tendrils of hair, the carotene shine of my nails. The thing slips completely into my head and my eyes close. I manage a last smile, still feeling the warmth of the star’s emission while falling back to the ground, as it somewhat comforts the blow of the unforgiving floor on my head.

Off and on for more than two months this is the dream that recurs in my sleep as I approach my departure date to moving to Alaska, though I tell no one. On the outside I am all sure smiles and confident control. On the inside I am pure recklessness, like the dream, unsure of which way to move in a dark and alien territory.

I begin to wear wool and flannel. I buy waterproof boots and a silk balaclava. I jump into rivers fully dressed to test my anti-bacterial quick-dry underwear. I move about from town to town, city to city, state to state in the western U.S. I have no home. Except my camera, a few books and the clothes on my back, I have no possessions to speak of. This is not a boast, but merely how I choose to live. In an age of amassing wealth and property, of resource wars and cataclysmic disasters, this concerted vagabond roaming is what comforts me. I am feeling my way through the darkness, grasping at invisible walls, tripping over unseen obstacles, experiencing the beauty and the terror simultaneously.

I understand how this may sound. I hear myself and I groan. Often my ego tells me to give it up kid, get a normal job, get married, have some babies and be respectable like the rest of us. The voice tells me that money is good, that it is really alright to clamor after the elusive muse of celebrity, to obsess over body image, to eat processed foods of indeterminate origin and healthfulness, to chase after the American Dream. Hey kid, what if everyone did what you are doing, shirked responsibility, bucked conventional wisdom, chased their dreams no matter how unrealistic? No one would get a damn thing done would they? Then, from out of some dark place, I hear myself growl, Fuck you voice of reason, fuck you.

The Great Wall of China at Changcheng (Manny Santiago)

The Great Wall of China at Changcheng

I look at my friends and my family and I see the sad grimaces they force on their faces when I come near, not wanting to ask what I am doing, but still trapped by the formality of language into cliched Q & As. Though occasionally we break through the patina of trite anecdotes, it doesn’t come as easily as it used to—mere drug use isn’t enough anymore. Not wanting to hear about anything that can’t be immediately grasped and understood, labeled and filed away under proper 21st century experience is still a great affliction of our close-minded reptile brains. It is understandable. Life is after all a lose-lose situation—everyone dies and it’s a slog to the end. We all are forced to watch our loved ones die. Just as we force others to watch us die. Jesus, how depressing. No wonder people need money, power, hardcore drugs, alcohol, nicotine, caffeine, sugar, sex, religion, politics, fascism, extremism, insanity, rock and roll and so on. Who doesn’t need something, more or less, along those lines? And who doesn’t have something to say about what is right and what is wrong not only for themselves, but for everyone else? O great ball of light, o great creature of the box, how to escape the tedious simplicity of human nature? There is no escape. One merely forges on through the cold darkness as far as we can into the occasional moments of illumination the external world sheds arbitrarily. I myself have always been attracted to that gorgeous moment of discovery in the midst of a single breathe, between the point of inhalation and exhalation, when time stops and the brain empties. The rest of the world falls away and you are left with whatever beauty you have surrounded yourself with, the makings of your own personal heaven: a pristine vista, a valley at sunrise, body-surfing in the ocean, fast cars and loud music, watching horses gallop, the smile of a loved one, the joy of accomplishment, or maybe just the first bite of a jelly glazed doughnut. Release.

It may be cold and distant, it may be invisible and impossible to find, it may be you don’t know where to begin, but it’s there if you want it to be. You just have to give chase. It’s time I started to take my own advice. So, I’m off to Alaska with my few books, my camera and bag of film, my waterproof boots and silk balaclava and my anti-bacterial quick-dry underwear. I will be in touch. I’m not dead yet.

Golden Gate Lines

She Loves Me. She Loves Me Not.
Golden Gate Perspective

Golden Gate Perspective

Follow her from the edges of the city and you will catch glimpses. Splashes of rust. Tall arches in subliminal parabolas. Bent steel. Rivets the size of children’s fists. Not just A but the bridge. The bridge to the west. The walkway at the end of the western world. And many more other platitudes as well. It is hard not to award her with a status above mere thing. The Golden Gate is a life-taker as well as a life-saver. Watch Eric Steel’s 2006 documentary, ominously entitled, The Bridge and you will find out what he did when he began a simple documentary on her storied history, which quickly turned into one of those unforgettable films you never want to see again. I have crossed her so many times–on foot bicycle car truck and bus, that it seems incredible to me to use her for anything other than getting to Lagunitas Brewery in Petaluma, but then again, for some, the water is a dark caller all her own.

Tip one back for Janet Begley R.I.P.

Jack & Janet Begley at Marineland circa 1965
Jack & Janet Begley at Marineland circa 1965

Jack & Janet Begley at Marineland circa 1965

People die every day. Every year we lose millions. Most will pass on unknown. Some, like Indy 500 winner Dan Wheldon, who died at 33, in a car crash in this year’s race, go too soon. Others, like the CBS radio man Norman Corwin, who lasted to 101, take more than the average share.

Who else of note died this year? That’s easy. This was a big year:

Janet Sturtevant High School Graduation 1947

Janet Sturtevant High School Graduation 1947

The man who made Apple richer than the U.S. government, Steve Jobs, lost the battle to cancer at 56. Bert Schneider, producer of Easy Rider, lasted to 78. Easy on the eyes Elizabeth Taylor was 79. Peter Falk, Lt. Columbo, was 83. 12 Angry Men director Sydney Lumet was 86. Seductress Jane Russell was 89. Andy Rooney, famous in America as out-spoken complainer on 60 Minutes, was 92. Betty Ford was 93. Fitness guru Jack Lalanne practiced what he preached and he made it to 96. George Whitman, legendary Paris bookshop Shakespeare & Co. owner who helped struggling writers, made it to 98.

Smokin’ Joe Frazier, the first man to beat Muhammad Ali, was 67. The much maligned minority owner of the NFL’s Oakland Raiders Al Davis was 82. Bubba Smith was 66. Macho Man Randy Savage was 58.

Amy Winehouse, sang until she burst at age 27. “The Revolution Will Not Be Televised” Gil Scott-Heron was 62. Springsteen saxophonist Clarence Clemons was 69. Blues guitarist Hubert Sumlin was 80.

The defector daughter of Joseph Stalin, Lana Peters, was 85. It was a good year for seeing dictators and extremists get off the main stage: Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, somehow made it to 69. As did the absurd dictator Moammar Kadafi. There may be something in that. Osama bin Laden was 54.

What about he who helped rather than hurt? Dr. Jack Kevorkian helped those in pain pass on was himself 83 when he went. A staunch fan of his to the end, my grandmother, Janet Elizabeth Begley died this December 11th at the age of 81. By her measure she had lived way too long, having finished what she was here to do long ago. If she were here now she would probably purse her lips and wonder sarcastically what all the fuss is about. She who taught me that “it’s five pm somewhere in the world,” would also be having a wee bit of Scotch.

If the newspapers weren’t crumbling from the same failing infrastructure her old-school Republican bones decried whenever she had tippled said Scotch, and obituaries didn’t cost in the thousands of dollars, what hers would have read was: Janet Elizabeth Begley née Sturtevant, of Canby, Oregon passed into the luminiferous aether sometime after nine a.m. on December 11th, 2011 due to failure of a heart that could finally take no more, stemming from a successful procedure to repair a broken hip. The second child of Cecil Sturtevant and Mary Ferris, and little sister to brother Donald, she popped into existence in Redlands, California on May 27th, 1930 (a younger brother, Peter Gumble, would be born more than a decade later). A tumultuous juvenility ensued through the Great Depression into a rebellious adolescence during World War II and early motherhood in the Baby Boom saw her deliver two children, Greg and Lari, into the world with her biker husband, Larry Nickens―a U.S. veteran―, whom the Fates did not deem a lifelong mate. Though it was not to be a simple life for single-mom Janet to raise her babes in the Leave It To Beaver ’50s, through her sacrifice and fortitude in the face of a still sexist America, she became a registered nurse and somehow managed to pave the way to a chicken in every pot and two cars in every driveway kind of life for her kids. It was not until the mid-sixties that Janet would meet the love of her life in Darrell ‘Jack’ Begley, whom she would love and live with for the rest of his life, in their adopted hometown of Long Beach, California. Now with a daily fatherly influence, the children grew up mostly healthy and mostly strong, and coupled with her brothers, gave Janet many nieces, nephews and grandchildren to love and care for. She quit her job as a nurse and dedicated her life to being the familial matriarch, a job which she adored, as she cracked wise about it with a thin brown More cigarette in one hand and a vodka soda in the other.

Janet Begley on her birthday 1965

Janet Begley on her birthday 1965

Throughout the ’80s and ’90s she saw her kids’ kids give birth to more kids and as her family grew, she and husband Jack moved throughout California to battle a wearying recession and her family’s annoying disposition for not staying put. Her son’s untimely death, a bout of lung cancer and even the burial of her husband Jack could not close the valve of her heart’s desire to beat on, and helped her live her last years in semi-rural northern Oregon, a climate for which she was not made. She breathed her last breath painlessly―after 81 years piled full of equal parts love and loss, pain and joy―slipping into a deep sleep from which she would never wake.

I would like to think that she would agree with Vaclav Havel, the recently deceased playwright president of former Czechoslovakia, whose motto was “May truth and love triumph over lies and hatred,” but I know that Marx’s famous “I don’t care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as members,” comes closer to her own worldview.

Raise your glasses people, for she is survived by her brother Pete, daughter Lari and lots of little ones still not staying put.

Dames and Drinks the Best of 2011

Drinks & Dames - Best of 2011
Drinks & Dames - Best of 2011

Drinks & Dames – Best of 2011

It ain’t over till the sexy lady sips her Manhattan, Holy Headbuzz Batman! was it a good year for dames I’ll never see again and drinks I will remember for the rest of my life. The list of new bars on the map is a long one: New Orleans’ Checkpoint Charlies. San Antonio’s Esquire Tavern. Phoenix’s Bikini Lounge. Santa Monica’s Liquid Kitty (OK, this is an old one, but haven’t been in years). San Francisco’s Mission Bar. Portland’s Gold Dust Meridian. And since it’s always nice to sip that long island ice tea with the fairer sex, here are a few ladies from the long happy hour that was 2011.